One of the most important compounds present in essential oils is the terpene.* Terpenes are vibrantly fragrant molecules that occur naturally in plant life, especially in conifers, bearing pigment, scent and flavor. When applied to skin, terpenes in essential oils work to promote homeostasis (balance) not just in skin but throughout the entire body once they enter the bloodstream through the skin.
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Terpenes are bioactive compounds which influence the body’s endocannabinoid system responsible for regulating various biological functions in the body such as immune response, appetite, metabolism, memory, respiration, sleep, stress response and more.
The effect of a terpene on the body will vary based on:
its concentration
its characteristics
the physical makeup of the person using it.
“The endocannabinoid system is a network of cell receptors that responds to chemicals like THC, among others. These receptors are mostly found in the brain but also show up in the immune cells, liver and lungs. This system is what helps with pain and inflammation regulation… Cannabinoids are a group of chemicals that interact with and bind to receptors in the brain, which can help regulate mood, sleep, appetite, and pain sensation… Cannabinoids are found in every person. What makes it different is the level of neurotransmitter that is present in a person's body.” — “The Endocannabinoid System for Dummies: 7 Facts.”
The term terpene was coined in 1866 by the scholar Fr. A. Kekulé. Later, German chemist Otto Wallach made a major discovery about terpenes noting a pattern of carbon to hydrogen atoms in all essential oils. Though the number of hydrogen and carbon atoms vary from terpene to terpene, the ratio is always the same: five carbon atoms to every eight hydrogen atoms. This “isoprene rule” earned him the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1910 and he was literally dubbed the “Messiah of Terpenes.”
The isoprene rule is the basic concept of terpenes' molecular structure and their biogenesis.
The isoprene unit acts as monomer or single unit that builds up in repeating units to form groups of terpenes we find in essential oils. Their names usually but not always end in -ene.
“A terpene can fall into a number of given classes, including mono, sesqui, di, tri or tetra terpenes, all of which are found in nature. Isoprenes are bonding units, and a terpene is classified into one of these categories by how many isoprene [units] it contains. Think of isoprenes as the building blocks of terpenes.” Andrew Freedman in Terpenes for Well-Being: A Comprehensive Guide to Botanical Aromas for Emotional and Physical Self-Care
monoterpenes consist of two isoprene units
sesquiterpenes consist of three isoprene units
diterpenes: four units
triterpenes: six units
tetraterpenes: eight units
Terpenes are known to modulate mood and heighten our sense of well-being. Stimulation of our olfactory receptors which happens when we take in the fragrance of a flower, for example, often makes an emotional impact on us. But this isn’t the whole story. The chemical composition of the terpenes interact directly with brain cells to regulate and influence their activity, in turn interacting with the entire body.
Terpenes present with woody, earthy, floral, fruity, citrusy, spicy or sweet aromas. An example of the woody note is the terpene guaiacol, a component of guaiac wood essential oil found in Ageless La Cure Nourishing Cream (above) by PHYTO5. It also provides the woody notes, for example, to support the rose fragrance in Chanel No. 19. All PHYTO5 skin and hair care is extremely abundant in terpenes given that all products are essential oil rich.
Over 20,000 unique terpenes exist in nature but only a fraction of them have been explored. In addition to working to create stasis in the human body, they play a vital role in maintaining stasis in our ecosystem. As one example, scientists believe terpenes evolved to protect plants from pests by repelling them with an unpleasant odor, killing or luring them with their scent only to trap them in their resin. Still other terpenes give off a pleasant odor that attracts beneficial insects.
Alpha-Pinene is the terpene found in essential oils like peppermint, rosemary, sage and frankincense. Alpha-Pinene gives evergreen trees their aroma. It’s anti-inflammatory and is known to help improve respiratory function.
Basil, black pepper, cinnamon, clove, patchouli, oregano, lavender and rosemary contain the peppery smelling terpene beta-Caryophyllene. It’s anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory and analgesic.
A final example of a common terpene is linalool. It exudes a calming fresh, floral smell and offers analgesic action as it promotes relaxation and stress relief. Lavender, basil, cilantro, clary sage, neroli and bergamot all contain linalool.
Terpenes are the constituents of flavors for spicing foods or creating distinct fragrances in perfumery. They equally serve as vital components in medical therapies and are hardly given the attention they deserve in most organic and pharmaceutical chemistry textbooks.
“Many of us think of aroma as a linear concept, a characteristic made up of easy to identify elements… but what really is the source of that aroma?” —Andrew Freedman
Terpenes are the building blocks of scent and flavor and layers of them create the aromas, the flavors and the healing properties we take for granted today. When you dissect what really creates combinations of scents and flavors, you become more aware of the majesty of nature. You become more aware of the enormous potential terpenes and essential oils have for your self-care, well-being and healing.
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Endnotes:
* You may have guessed that the word terpene is derived from the word turpentine. This is because terpenes are a major component of turpentine most of which is derived from coniferous trees.
Kreider, Heather. “Terpenes In Essential Oils.” Skininc.texterity.com, 7 Oct. 2021, https://skininc.texterity.com/skininc/october_2021/MobilePagedArticle.action?articleId=1730052&ajs_uid=5912I1544689E4Z&oly_enc_id=5912I1544689E4Z#articleId1730052.
Potter, Beverly A. Terpenes: The Magic in Cannabis. United States, Ronin Publishing, 2019.
“The Endocannabinoid System for Dummies - 7 Facts.” ShredCBD by PFX Labs, https://shredcbd.com/blogs/shredcbd/the-endocannabinoid-system-for-dummies.
Breitmaier, Eberhard. Terpenes: Flavors, Fragrances, Pharmaca, Pheromones. Germany, Wiley, 2006.
Freedman, Andrew. Terpenes for Well-Being: A Comprehensive Guide to Botanical Aromas for Emotional and Physical Self-Care. N.p., Mango Media.